Air FAQ

  • Q. What is the most effective way to eliminate my grow room odors?
    A. Charcoal filters are very efficient in removing unwanted odors. They remove 99% of all grow room odor when used correctly. Nothing on the market can compete with a high quality charcoal filter for grow room odor removal.
  • Q. Do ozone generators work for odor removal?
    A. Yes. Not nearly as effective as a charcoal filter but they do work to some degree. They do kill bacteria and fungi very well.
  • Q. Is ozone harmful to humans?
    A. High levels of ozone can burn your skin and really hurt your eyes. Do not stare directly at the lamp in an ozone generator. If you can smell a strong ozone presence in your room that means you are using too much. Ozone will oxidize the cells in your lungs and can be hazardous to your health.
  • Q. How exactly does ozone work?
    A. Ozone is 03. Oxygen is 02. Ozone is oxygen with a third atom stuck to it. It does not like having a third atom stuck to it and it will do anything to get rid of it. After about 1/2 an hour the third atom falls off looking to grab a partner. In this case fungi and bacteria are usually that partner. Once the 03 has shaken its third atom it becomes stable again and can move on. Ozone works best when it has a chance to mix or swirl with its particles.
  • Q. How does an ozone generator actually make ozone?
    A. Ozone lamps (germicidal) produce high energy photons that hit oxygen gas and expand the electrons and a third oxygen comes together to form O3 (ozone). Germicidal lamps are powered by special ballast and come in a variety of different sizes to fit specific grow room requirements.
  • Q. How long does the average charcoal filter last?
    A. That depends on the manufacturer. High quality filters such as Can filters or PHAT filters will last from 2- 3 years of continuous use. They can be repacked but its really not worth it by the time you by the carbon and get it in the odds of it working as well as when you got it are slim and none, These filters are professionally manufactured for long lasting unsurpassed duality while the average Joe at home cant possibly pack the carbon properly. After 3 years of use you should feel no worries about replacing it. I’m sure it has given you your moneys worth from it long ago.
  • Q. Is it good to use oscillating fans?
    A. Yes, lots of air movement is essential for a productive indoor garden. Oscillating fans push the air through the leaves and the tops of theplants which is where good air flow is a must. Leaves take I n the air on there underside through tiny microscopic pores known as the stomata. Oscillating fans help keep a constant supply of air movement within the plants which really helps the plant replenish itself with fresh air.
  • Q. When should I use C02 in my grow room, Day or Night cycle?
    A. C02 is only need when the lights are on. During the plants dark cycle the plants actually respire Co2 and breathe in oxygen just as human do.
  • Q. What airs the Best way to Produce C02 for my indoor garden?
    A. There are 2 very good options. 1st being propane or natural gas C02 burners. 2nd being C02 tanks used with a regulator and solenoid hooked up to a timer. The propane and gas burners produce high amounts of heat, but are definitely more efficient cost wise to operate compared to the cylinders. Propane is easily available at local gas stations while cylinder usually has to purchase at a welding ship. Some hydro stores carry them for lease. If the room is large then the propane or gas burner is much more efficient. If heat is a serious problem then the cylinders definitely have an advantage in that they produce no heat but can get costly to operate on a large scale. The burners have been known to cause high humidity in the room so growers will have to really keep an eye on humidity when using a burner.
  • Q. Is C02 really that important to my garden?
    A. Yes It is. Growers on average report 20-30% increase in their yields when using C02 properly. C02 is what your plant breathes and requires for photosynthesis. It is truly amazing how well your garden will do when adding Co2. It is
    truly the best thing you can add to your garden to really get it growing in high gear. I cannot say enough good things about it. It is expensive to set up, but once you’re going look out because it’s going to get out of hand! Save your money from expensive additives and supplements and invest in a C02 system and you will be seriously impressed. I can sit here all day and tell you how great it is but you have to see it to believe it.
  • Q. What should my grow room temperature be at?
    A. Optimal grow room temperature would be 75 – 85 F. After that photosynthesis starts to slow down because the stomata (leaves microscopic pores which breathe in air) close down to conserve water transpiration.
  • Q. What should the root zone temperature be at for optimal growth?
    A. The ultimate temperature your roots will be most productive is 75 F (23.9 c)
  • Q. What is the purpose of adding C02 to my grow room?
    A. C02 plays a major role in photosynthesis. The leaves produce sugars by using light to combine water and nutrients with C02. When you increase the rate of photosynthesis with C02 you increase the growth rate and the potential yield for your plant will increase.
  • Q. What is more efficient to operate, an inline fan or a squirrel cage fan?
    A. Based on CFM per amperage inline fans are usually most efficient. They have been designed with maximum air flow at a minimum wattage leaving the grower with a very efficient product. Squirrel cages are becoming a thing of the past now with the evolution of inline fans taking over the market. That delivers so much more CFM per watt than the typical blower that only
    makes sense to invest in an inline fan.
  • Q. What is a quieter fan to operate? A squirrel cage fan or an inline fan?
    A. Inline fans are extremely quiet and usually much more efficient than the squirrel cage fan. They typically have a higher CFM rating per watt than a squirrel cage fan and usually come with a 5 year warranty so it’s hard to beat them!
  • Q. What should the humidity be at in my grow room?
    A. Ideally the humidity should sit around 55-65%. Any higher than 70% can pose a serious problem. High humidity in the dark cycle can lead to gray mold and can ruin a crop. Humidity is very important and should be maintained with a hygrometer. These are in expensive and really help. When the humidity reaches a high level a dehumidifier is a must. These can be purchased at Home depot or Wal-Mart and they work excellent. They can easily pull 5 gallons a day out of the air if your grow room is humid so keep an eye on your humidity levels.
  • Q. I have an 800 CFM fan exhausting out, what should I have bringing fresh air in to supplement the air going out?
    A. You should always bring in at least 1/2 the amount of CFM into the grow area as you are exhausting out of the grow room. Constant fresh air is a true asset to any indoor garden and is defiantly needed for optimal growth.
  • Q. How much CFM should I have for every 1000 watt lamp had in my garden?
    A. A safe recommendation is 125 CFM per 1000 watt lamp in the summer this should rise to 150 CFM per 1000 watt lamp. Excess heat can really slow production down.
  • Q. Is it possible to use a standard window air conditioner in my basement grow room?
    A. Yes this is very easily done. It is very simple and works so well. First measure the dimensions of the rear of the unit. Call a heating and ducting company and have then fabricate you a box. Most ducting companies will do custom fabrication for very reasonable prices. Have them construct you a box 2 feet deep with a 4 inch round duct at the end. Have the box
    built so it fits perfectly over the rear of your window AC unit. The idea of the box is trap the heat produced from the rear of the unit. Once you have a fabricated steel box fasten it with self tapping screws to the AC unit. Attach a 4″ inline fan to the 4″ duct on your box to suck the heat from the AC unit. Vent the 4″ duct out a dryer duct or through the furnace to remove
    the heat the AC unit produces. It may seem like a lot but it is a simple procedure and it will really reduce the heat in your grow room. I had a box made for $45 and it worked like a charm.
  • Q. What type of ducting is better to use, aluminum flexible or the vinyl flexible?
    A. Use the aluminum. It will retain the heat better than the vinyl will and will also retain the heat better. Aluminum ducting is not much more than the vinyl and is a much better purchase in the long run.
  • Q. What are the Stomata?
    A. The Stomata is tiny microscopic pore on the leaves undersides that control the flow of air into the plant. Basically the Nostril of the plant. It is important to keep plants free of dust and dirt as it can clog these tiny pores. High humidity also affects the stomata by reducing its ability to respire. The surrounding air is so humid and full of after the plant can not breathe out as the surrounding air is full of water already and cannot accept the moisture the plant is trying to send off.
  • Q. What should the temperature in my cuttings area?
    A. The room temperature should be between 72-75F for maximum rooting time.
  • Q. What precautions should I take with a Co2 burner?
    A. C02 burners are safe when used correctly. The first precaution is to purchase a carbon monoxide detector. Theses are very cheap (around $ 40) and will let you know if your home reaches high levels of carbon monoxide. Co2 burners should be purchased based on grow room size and therefore should be safe to operate. Make sure your burner is mounted securely. Remember this is a fire hazard due to the fact there are flames burning at all times. Make sure nothing is in the way of the unit and that is secure and will not tip over. Test for leaks using soapy water at all fittings at least once a month. When used properly C02 burners are great. They do however require some care and are not for the average Joe who is just playing around.
  • Q. What is Dry Ice?
    A. Dry ice is C02 that has been frozen and compressed into blocks. As it melts it turns from solid into gas releasing C02 into the air. Unfortunately it is hard to store and can get expensive to use.
  • Q. What is better for a carbon filter? A Can Filter or ODORSOK ?
    A. With Carbon filters you are getting what you pay for. Can Filters will last alot longer then an ODORSOK but cost alot more. ODORSOK’s work excellent but will not last aslong as CanFilter. Both work excellent but CanFilter will last longer so in the long run will be your best bet, if your on a tight budget and need a quick reliable fix to odor problems then the ODORSOK is an excellent choice.
  • Q. CAN FILTERS – How do I install a Flange?
    A. You can purchase a flange separate from your filter and fan or have it come with everything in a Box Combo all that you need to do is take the foam tape gasket and apply it to the outer edges of the flange then simply center the flange on the filter and use 6 Tek screws and drill into the top of the filter in a star pattern. And viola! Your flange is now attached to the filter.
  • Q. CAN FILTERS-How much CFM loss is there through the filter?
    A. Every different size of filter provides a different resistance to each different size and style of fan you put on it, a filter at the maximum exhaust CFM rating has approximately 0.7 wg. pressure drop All Fans will have a lower CFM at a higher pressure. For Example at .5″wg The 10″ Max-Fan goes from 1019 CFM to 885 CFM, The 12″ Max-Fan would go from 1708
    CFM to 1595 CFM
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS- Do I need to replace the pre-filter?
    A. It is a good idea to replace the pre-filter when they become dirty because the pre filter is blocking larger dirt and dust particles from getting into the pore structure of the carbon, a dirty pre filter increases the pressure, which will decrease the flow through the filter.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS – Can my Filter be refilled?
    A. Technically the filter can be re-filled, but it is not a good idea to self-fill the filters at all, the reason for this is that Can-Filters uses an industrial shaker with timed intervals and a dust extraction system, to ensure a packed carbon bed .This eliminates the possibility of preferred air channels through the filter, because as we all know, air does not wait in line to go through a filter it finds the path of least resistance and crowds in. So if you tried packing the filter yourself, as soon as you got it as full as you think you could get it, attached a fan and turned it on, the fan would vibrate the carbon, and over time the carbon would settle and you would be left with air gaps all over the place presenting the air with channels to flow through the filter and possibly leave untreated.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS – What is the Maximum Temperature/Humidity I can run my filter at?
    A. The maximum recommended temperature that you can run your filter at is 80 Degrees Centigrade, and as soon as your start rising above 70% humidity, the water molecules in the air start to get stuck in the carbon pore structure and slowly diminish the life of the filter.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS – How long does the filter last?
    A. The life of a filter is determined by the concentration of the contaminant, the relative humidity and the volume of air cleaned. Unfortunately there is no indicator light on the filter that tells you when it is ready to be replaced. Experience with one Can-Filter will give you an expectation for future Can-Filters in your particular application.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS – What is the Can-Filters packed bed design?
    A. During the manufacturing process Canfilters uses an industrial shaker to vibrate the filter to ensure the carbon bed is packed tight and full to the top. This process eliminates any preferential channels which would allow the odor to pass through the carbon without the proper contact time. Canfilters only uses quality activated carbon that is designed for our manufacturing process. The CFG packed bed design filter ensures the highest quality odor control.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS- Is there a calculation for sizing a room?
    A. Yes there is and it’s really quite simple, all you need to do is take your cubic feet of the room (Length x Width x Height) and divide that number by the number of minutes you would like to exchange the air in the room (Only 1 – 3 Minutes is recommended) and that will give you the recommended minimum CFM that you need for that room, then you take that Min CFM number
    and match it to one of our filters and as long as that Minimum recommended CFM is higher then the exhaust minimum on the filter you will have adequate airflow and proper filtration for that room.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS- Are your fans Speed Controllable?
    A. Yes. Both the Can-Fan and the Max-Fan line of fans are 100% speed controllable, Try the Can-Trol Speed Control for your 120V fans, This control provides absolutely no motor hum when controlling the fan, it also gives you the option to control the voltage entering your fan, with an easy to use dial you can go from 1v to 130V with a turn of your hand, no
    matter what voltage you run, your fan will not hum!
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS- Can you push or pull through the filter?                                                                                                          A. You can both pull through the filter or push air through the filter, if you are going to push air through the filter it is recommended to take off the outer pre-filter and place it before the intake of the fan so you can remove dust and dirt particulate before it enters your fan and filter
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS- Can you push or pull through the filter?
    A. You can both pull through the filter or push air through the filter, if you are going to push air through the filter it is recommended to take off the outer pre-filter and place it before the intake of the fan so you can remove dust and dirt particulate before it enters your fan and filter.
  • Q. CAN-FILTERS- How do I size the proper fan to a filter?
    A. We actually put the recommended fan right on the sticker on the Can-Filter to take away any of the guess work you may have had to do in the past, but if you do not have a filter right in front of you the same formula for sizing a room works to size a fan to a filter and a filter to a room ( Length x Width x Height) gives your cubic feet and then divide that number by the number of minutes you would like the air to be exchanged in that room (only 1 to 3 minutes is recommended!!) and that will give you
    the recommended minimum CFM that you need for that room, then you take that Min CFM number and match it to one of our filters and as long as that Minimum recommended CFM is higher then the exhaust minimum on the filter
    you will have adequate airflow and proper filtration for that room.